This great Patio Table solves the age-old off season storage problem, once and for all!
Lay out and drill the 7/16" holes in the tops of the Legs (C) according to the LEG SLOT LAYOUT drawing. These holes will form the bottoms of the slots that will slip over the corner hanger bolts during assembly. We'll finish the slots later with the Bandsaw. Use a hole saw to drill the 1-1/2" diameter post holes (to match the diameter of your umbrella post) in the center Top Slat (H) and the Post Holder (F).
4. Corner block assembly.
Tilt your Drill Press Table to 45-degrees and mount your Rip Fence on the Table to form a V-Block drilling set-up (see the Drill Press chapter in your “Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone” text). Be sure to use equal thickness scrap blocks to keep from drilling into the Table surface and the face of your Rip Fence during this process. Center the tip of your 1/4" Brad Point Drill Bit over the "V" where your scrap blocks intersect. Drop your chunk of Corner Block stock (L) into this "V" and drill a 1/4" through-hole diagonally, 2-1/4" down from each end of your stock (see photo 4).
Set-up your Bandsaw and tilt the Table to 45-degrees. If you have an older Shopsmith Bandsaw, mount your Miter Gauge with a wooden Extension in the cross slot on the “downhill” side of the blade. You'll use this set-up to saw your Corner Block stock in half diagonally. If you have a newer Shopsmith Bandsaw, use your Bandsaw Rip Fence for this operation. Cut each 9" long triangular block into two 4-1/2" long Corner Blocks (L).
Cut the 11" long angled slip notches in the two Upper Brace Outer Legs (D), as shown in the drawing. Finish cutting the 7/16" wide hanger bolt notches in the tops of the Legs (C).
Assembly and Finishing NOTE: For maximum durability, use a waterproof (NOT water RESISTANT) glue such as resorcinol or one of the new polyurethane glues when assembling the components of the Table.